Remove a sticker or any object from a photo
Remove a sticker from a photo by painting over it — a price sticker, a barcode label, a stray cable, a reflection — and it is replaced with what should have been behind it. No clone stamp, no Photoshop.
Drop a photo here
Or click to browse — you can paste one straight from your clipboard too.
Choose an imageOpening the editor…
Your image is on its way. Work starts the moment it lands.
Three steps, nothing to learn.
Upload, let it run, download. The editor opens with your image already loading.
Add your photo
Drag a JPG, PNG or WEBP up to 10 MB onto the box above, click to browse, or paste one from the clipboard.
Brush over what you want gone
The editor opens with a brush whose size you set. Paint roughly over the object — you do not need to be precise, and covering slightly more than the object usually works better than covering less.
Download the result
Save the cleaned image, or keep going in the same editor to cut the background, upscale, or resize for a marketplace.
Almost nobody opens an eraser to be creative. They open it because something is in the photo that should not be.
These are the jobs it gets used for most.
Price stickers and barcode labels
Retail packaging arrives covered in stickers you cannot sell around. Brushing them off leaves the packaging design intact instead of forcing a re-shoot.
Stray cables, stands and clamps
Anything holding the product up during the shoot — a stand leg, a bit of tape, a clamp at the edge of the frame — comes out without touching the product itself.
Reflections and shadows you did not want
A window reflected in a glossy surface, or a hard shadow from a bad light angle. Both are easier to erase than to re-light.
Watermarks on your own images
If you have lost the unwatermarked original of a photo you own, brushing the mark off usually recovers a usable version. Do this only on images you have the rights to.
Dust, scratches and blemishes
Small imperfections on a product surface or the backdrop. This is what the smallest brush size is for.
Background clutter
A plug socket, a skirting board, the corner of a laptop. Erasing these is often quicker than removing the whole background and rebuilding it.
Removing things without leaving a hole.
Zyvavo is built by someone who sells on Etsy and eBay, so these are the jobs it was made for first.
Price tags, stickers and barcodes
A product photo with the shop label still on it reads as resold rather than sold. Painting the sticker out is a few seconds of work and the surface underneath is usually plain, which is exactly the case the eraser handles best.
Reflections, hands and the edge of your phone
Shooting a glossy product means your own reflection is in it. So does shooting anything on a table, where a hand or a phone edge creeps into frame. Both come out cleanly when the area behind them is simple.
Clutter in the background of a room shot
A cable, a plug socket or a stray shoe pulls the eye away from the item you are selling. Erasing them keeps the room but removes the distraction, which is often more honest than swapping the background entirely.
Watermarks on images you own
If you own the photo, removing your old watermark before reusing it is straightforward. If you do not own it, the eraser will still work and you will still be infringing — the tool has no way to tell the difference, so that judgement is yours.
What it handles well — and where it struggles.
No tool is perfect, and any page claiming otherwise is selling you something. Here is roughly where the line sits.
Small objects on plain surfaces
A sticker on a box, a mark on a wall, a cable against a plain floor. The model has plenty of surrounding context to copy from, so the fill is convincing and you will not find the seam.
Medium objects with simple backgrounds
Something taking up a fair part of the frame against an even background. Expect a good result most of the time, and check the edges of the erased area before you use it.
Large objects and complex backgrounds
Erasing something big, or something sitting in front of a detailed pattern, means the model has to invent a lot. Results here can look smeared. Erasing in a few smaller passes usually beats one large one.
Five things worth knowing.
The brush technique matters more than anything else, and it is not obvious.
- Cover slightly more than the object. Leaving a rim of the thing you are removing is the most common cause of a ghost outline. Go a little wide.
- Work in small passes. Erasing three medium things separately gives a better result than one enormous brushed area, because each pass has more surrounding context to work from.
- Match the brush to the job. A big brush on a small blemish takes out more background than it needs to. A small brush on a large object leaves patchy edges.
- Erase before you cut the background. Cleaning up first means the background remover has a simpler scene to read and gives a cleaner edge.
- Do not erase across a hard edge. Brushing over the boundary between two very different areas — a table edge, a horizon — forces the model to guess where the line should continue, and it often guesses wrong.
New accounts start with 100 credits free — that is 20 erases — with no card and no subscription. The eraser costs more than the simple tools because it has to invent what belongs where the object was.
Answered.
Is the object eraser free?
Every new account gets 100 credits at signup with no card required, and an erase costs 5 credits — so 20 images before you have paid anything. Credit packs after that are one-off purchases rather than a subscription.
Can it remove a sticker from a photo?
Yes — price stickers, barcode labels and tags on products are exactly what it is built for. Brush over the sticker and slightly past its edge. It does not reveal what was really underneath; it paints in what most plausibly belongs there, which works well on plain surfaces and less well on detailed print.
Why does the eraser cost more than the other tools?
Compressing or resizing rearranges data that already exists. Erasing has to generate new pixels that plausibly belong where the object was, which is a much heavier job to run.
How do I choose the brush size?
Match it roughly to the thing you are removing. The slider runs from a fine tip for blemishes up to a broad brush for larger objects, and you can change it between passes.
Does it work on watermarks?
Usually, on your own images. Watermarks are typically thin and semi-transparent, which gives the model plenty of surrounding detail to rebuild from. Only do this on images you hold the rights to.
Can I erase a person from a photo?
Yes, and the result depends mostly on what is behind them. Someone against a plain wall comes out cleanly. Someone in front of a detailed scene means a lot of invention, and it will show.
What if the result looks smeared?
Undo and try again in smaller passes rather than one large brushed area. Smearing almost always means the erased region was too big for the surrounding context to fill convincingly.
Will there be a watermark on the result?
No. Full resolution, nothing added.
Do you keep my photos?
We never receive them. The eraser model runs in your browser, so the photo stays on your device the whole time — it is not uploaded, stored or used for training.
Can I erase and remove the background in one go?
They are separate jobs, but they happen in the same editor on the same image without starting again. Erasing first tends to give the background remover a cleaner scene to work with.
What file types can I use?
JPG, PNG and WEBP up to 10 MB. The result comes back in a format that preserves what the edit needs.
Everything else you can do to the same image.
Once a photo is open in the editor, every tool below is one click away — no re-uploading.
Try it on your worst photo.
The hardest image you have is the honest test. Drop it in and see.